It’s easy to see that the progression in technology in climbing gear has accelerated in the last few years, but there are few areas in which the advance has been as marked as that of the trusty helmet. Even during the relatively short period I’ve been climbing the progress in terms of comfort and weight has been extraordinary.It wasn’t long ago that all helmets seemed to be heavy, uncomfortable and distinctly un-cool. Well, all that has changed and 2008’s crop of lightweight helmets is testament to this. The following mini-article/review covers five of the main players in the lightweight helmet market, listed below in no particular order:

* Grivel Air Tech
* Edelrid Targa
* Petzl Altios
* Grivel Salamander
* Black Diamond Half Dome

A detailed look at all five follows, but firstly I’ll go through a few basics; these are things you need to look out for when you’re buying any helmet.

Design and Construction

The key aspect of a helmet that will dictate its overall performance and suitability for purpose is the way it is constructed. There are now three main types:

Traditional: Hard Shell

These are the basic shell and cradle style lids that have been a favourite of mountaineers and climbers for many years. Probably the best example of this is the Petzl Ecrin rock, which is widely used as the benchmark climbing/mountaineering helmet. These are the best choice if you are going somewhere where the helmet is likely to see a lot of action as they are the most hardwearing, and the best for major impact from above. In fact if you and the helmet are likely to encounter a serious hammering there is still no better (or tougher) option than the Edelrid Ultralight classic helmet.

New Style: EPS – Expanded Plastic Foam

One of the most remarkable developments in recent years has been the introduction of what I often refer to as the ‘cycle helmet style’ design. These helmets, an early example being the Petzl Meteor, utilise a moulded ‘expanded plastic foam’ (EPS) design which allows them to minimise weight and maximise comfort. Unlike traditional helmets these do not feature a hard shell, so the way in which the helmet deals with the impact is through the foam absorbing the force exerted on it. Although less durable, and slightly less effective than the hard shell design for penetration from above, protection is better around the sides of the helmet.These make for excellent rock climbing helmets; the kind of thing you might put on for a day at a single pitch crag, or when headpointing a hard route on the gritstone. The weight and bulk saving that this style of helmet offers is going to be really appreciated by the trad or sport climber looking for appropriate head protection.

Hybrid: The best of both worlds?

Many helmets in production nowadays take componants/ideas from both of the above designs, creating perhaps the best compromise for the majority of climbers, who will expect one helmet to cover the variety of situations they may find themselves in. Nearly all of the helmets on test come under this category. They are more durable than the EPS style but also lighter and more versatile than the traditional design.

Helmet Fit

All the helmets on test passed the basic requirements with flying colours so really the way to choose the one for you is to look at which will best fit your requirements for use, and which will be the most comfortable. However, having passed all of the helmets on test around my various climbing partners I was impressed with the way they all seemed to accommodate different sizes and shapes of head.I can only assume that this is due to the well-developed cradle system that features in all. Webbing straps cradle your head and in each case the adjustment of these are controlled by a winding bezel at the rear. This appears to be the standard for adjusting the size, and for me it works very well; simple, quick and easy to use.

Head Torch Compatibility

Even if you only plan to use a helmet for rock climbing, you never know when you might need to strap your head torch on and this would be difficult if your helmet doesn’t have features that facilitate this. Luckily all the helmets on test were designed to accept torches. This is achieved by a mixture of methods, from elastic straps to slots fitted to the shell, and all these work to good effect.

Individual Models Tested

Okay, so now we’ve got the basics covered it's time to see how the five models I tested stack up against one another. I used these over a period of 3 or 4 months and during this time I was able to give them a thorough appraisal...

Grivel Air Tech: RRP £60 [Weight = 285g]The Air Tech was the first EPS style helmet I’ve used, and I have to say I’m hugely impressed. The weight, or more appropriately lack of it, is really noticeable and I would strongly recommend this model to anyone looking for protection on single pitch climbs. The EPS design will mean that this is not going to be as durable as some of the other models on test, but the benefits in weight and comfort will outweigh this, especially if you don’t intend to encounter too many knocks to the head.The well ventilated design will lend itself particularly to summer cragging, while the bright yellow colour will make you highly visible in poor conditions. At £60, the Air Tech is the most expensive model on test but in my opinion well worth it. Besides, when compared with other EPS models, it is very competitively priced.Because of the ultralight design of this model, it may appeal to people who are looking for a second helmet for cragging. Lots of air vents make this very breathable and therefore great for use in the summer heat.

Edelrid Targa: RRP £46 [Weight = 370g]The Targa is a good example of the hybrid style. It is well padded and the strap fits nicely, although the strap itself is not padded - like some of the other models. I didn’t ever feel like it was going to rub or become uncomfortable. Like the other models on test, the Targa features a soft padding inside and around the rim, which means you can fit the helmet tightly whilst retaining comfort. The adjustment at the rear of the Targa is a little more complex than the other models (you have to press the top to turn the wheel with your thumb) but I found it just as easy to use. It also seemed like the enclosed design might be more durable, although I couldn’t say for sure.The Targa also struck me as a particularly good choice in hot weather due to the row of mesh covered vents. At £46, this seemed like an excellent value and versatile piece of kit.

Petzl Altios: RRP £50 [Weight = 335g]As you would expect from our French counterparts at Petzl, the Altios is a very well designed and comfortable helmet. The level of adjustability is such that it appears to fit most people’s heads nicely (after passing it around my various climbing partners I’ve yet to find anyone who found it uncomfortable).The cradle incorporates a mesh panel than means that the polystyrene layer (which lines the shell) is held above the head. This means that breathability is excellent and you barely feel like you're wearing the helmet, which is a very welcome feature.The Altios also features head torch attachment clips and comes in an unassuming grey colour ('platinum') as well as a more eye catching orange. At £50, this is a reasonably priced helmet that will appeal to a wide range of users.

Grivel Salamander: RRP £50.00 [Weight = 390g]The Salamander is the second offering from Grivel that was tested. With this model you get all the quality you will have come to expect from Petzl, and a slightly more versatile helmet than the Grivel Air Tech. The shell of the Salamander seems like it is ready to withstand a fair amount of grief, but comfort is not compromised. Although this helmet is inevitably heavier than the Air Tech, a couple of nice additions meant that I had to check I’d got it back after lending it to my climbing partner on a recent trip to Pembroke (he’s an honest kind of guy but did seem quite attached to it!). Even if no one else reads this review and thinks “I’ll buy one of those”, I reckon the Salamander may have at least one new customer from this endeavor.The rim of this model is lined with a firm layer of closed cell foam which makes it feel a bit more secure and close fitting while a removable sleeve prevents chaffing from the chin strap. All things considered this is a very good all round climbing helmet, and well worth the sub-£50 Rock + Run asking price.

Black Diamond Half Dome: RRP £40 [Weight = 350g]The Half Dome is the bottom of the pile in terms of price, but thankfully not in terms of performance! The £40 price tag will make this appealing and rightly so – this one probably represents the best value for money. The Half Dome is a model that has been around for a while now – tried and tested. I always feel reassured when this is the case as it normally indicates that the manufacturer has got it right.I’ve used a Half Dome for a number of years, after I decided to sell my Ecrin Roc and get something a bit lighter. However, I found during this review that the current Half Dome has been tweaked to become more comfortable than previous incarnations. The inner cradle appears to have been made more comfortable with the addition of a better quality foam lining, plus the new adjustment makes a highly customised fit possible....

And finally: suits you sir?

You will be pleased to hear that the range of head wear on test covered all bases for those who care about their appearance at the crag. Those who'd rather blend in to the background might favour the more subtle colour shades on offer from most of the suppliers. Whilst the safety conscious will probably like the visibility of the bright oranges or ‘fireman’ yellow's offered by Grivel, Black Diamond and Petzl.Joking apart, this may be an important consideration for some users - I’ve always thought that if you’re going to get stuck in a blizzard, you might as well be stuck wearing a helmet that makes you easier to see!

Duncan Barrack testing the Grivel Salamander on Suspense Concluding Observations

There is very little to choose between the models on test as I found each one to perform very well indeed. Most people’s main consideration, after deciding the primary use for the helmet, will be the comfort factor. The level of adjustability on offer by this selection will mean that the choice is wider than ever, and the decision more difficult.The other big consideration will be price, and the models on test span a fairly wide range. If you are feeling the effects of the economic downturn then the obvious choice is the Black Diamond Half Dome. This is cheap, comfortable and likely to take a fair bit of abuse - thoroughly recommended.On the other hand, if you’ve just set up a business called “Repossessions Are Us”, you may well be tempted by the Grivel Air Tech. Again I would say that this is an excellent choice. Either way, or if you have a mid range budget then none of the helmets discussed above will disappoint. If you have not tried a lightweight model before they will probably exceed all expectations.

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