The Duddon Valley is one the most beautiful and unspoiled corners of Lakeland, perhaps due in no small part to a (thankful) lack of tourist amenities, easy access and a lake! From a rock climbing perspective, despite being laden with a multitude of lesser known, yet glorious, single-pitch crags, all with fantastic and varied locations, many climbers see the valley, in Stonestar and Wallowbarrow, as something of a two crag destination. For this reason, even the most stalwart trad climber often seems to purvey the area as a less frequented backwater retreat, and as for bouldering; well the Duddon is so far off the radar it may as well be on Mars.

Dunnerdale Image Gallery 

In fact, there have been previous minor forays made in the development of Duddon boulderng; with the small, spread out circuit in the vicinity of Seathwaite Tarn an example of this. However, until recently this small collection of esoteric problems was as good as got when it came to bouldering in the swale of Duddon.

At long last, the development of the ‘Dunnerdale Circuit’ means this picturesque coulee is now a viable option for the boulderer seeking more than esoteric day out combing the hillside for far-flung gems. In terms of specifics, the climbing focuses on a collection of around 20 blocks situated either side of the large bridleway, which leaves Birks Bridge car park at the northern end of the valley and contours (in meandering fashion) up the southeast flanks of Harter Fell. Just over 60 problems have so far been recorded, across a spectrum of grades and styles, and the circuit now offers a highly usable and easy to navigate circuit of problems, with a handful of classics thrown in to boot.

Aspect

As all the sectors face southeast they get plenty of sun and ventilation, and with the exception of a couple of blocks none of the climbing is effected by tree cover. The exposed nature of the area does mean it can prove cold during blustery weather; however this also means the rock dries extremely quickly after rain. The standout boulders are the Buckstone, Cool Logic Block, Brandy Stone and Laser Quest Block, all of which offer some really fine climbing.

Sector Summary

Sector A (Dark Nations)
This first sector is a pleasant little round offering some excellent individual problems and a good overall circuit. Whilst it doesn’t contain the most impressive/hardcore blocks at the venue, it is well worth a visit, especially for those operating around 6c+/V5. All the boulders, bar Block 4, have good landings and offer clean, solid rock in a very scenic setting. The blocks are in close proximity to one another, although watch where you walk as you move between blocks, the ground is quite uneven in places. The classic ticks of the circuit are: The Grinder, Dark Nations, Black Hart and Myths & Legends.

Sector A.1 (Buckstone)
The Buckstone is a large block situated just off the main bridleway, a short distance up the hill from Sector A. Hosting one classic and a couple of other less distinguished climbs, this prominent boulder, which can be seen from as far away as the opposite side of the valley, draws you in from the moment you lay eyes on it, nestling on the hillside at eastern edge of a small larch coppice. The aforementioned classic is Way Out West (7b/V8), a superb lesson in burley prow climbing and an absolute must for all those operating at the grade.
 

Sector B (Cool Logic)
This next area is situated immediately to the left of the track (south), a further 1.5km up the bridleway. It is split into two adjacent areas, the first (the Pine Stones) being two nice blocks on the edge of the forest and the second offering three more blocks, centering on a large rounded rock – the Cool Logic Block. This unusual semi-orbed boulder was once buried in the depths of a dense pine forest, and as such initially took some extensive cleaning. Now fully scoured it offers some great climbs, with one standout 7a/V6 crack climb, which is so good it could have been wrenched clean out of Tom Randall’s dreams!

Sector C (The Pyramid & Laser Quest)
The upper sector of the Dunnerdale bouldering circuit contains some of the best climbing on offer, and, in the Laser Quest Block, arguably the best boulder at the venue. This sector is split into three sub sectors, with one large area; offering numerous blocks, and two smaller areas; each essentially centering on one good boulder. The first area reached is The Pyramid, which lies directly below main buttress of the crag. This area is so named due to the first boulder encountered being something of a polyhedron in shape. Directly above this are a further four easily visible blocks, each offering some very decent problems. Between The Pyramid and the Laser Quest Block is another nice boulder (Smiler’s Crack Block) with two excellent climbs, which are well worth the stop-off. Finally, the pièce de résistance of the entire venue (in the authors view at least) is reached: the Laser Quest Block is one of those boulders you find from time to time, and when you do the numerous wild goose chases which came before are all quickly forgotten, as you are suddenly taken hold by a feeling of excitement which can only be likened to that which embraced you on a distant Christmas morning, as an awe filled 6 year old! Without eulogising too much more, this really is a great block, and a prime example of the fantastically rough and solid volcanic rock this part of Lakeland is famed for. The main face offers a 20 degree angle, beautiful holds, a great view (you can even see the sea on a clear day!) and a near perfect landing, what more could you ask for!?

Guide
I have created a FREE to download PDF guide for the Dunnerdale Bouldering Circuit, this is available via the Dunnerdale crag page, on LakesBloc. www.lakesbloc.com/dunnerdale

This short article is based on the information I originally wrote for the Dunnerdale bouldering guide and news report relating to the development of the area, first published on LakesBloc.com.