Background
The rugged and atmospheric coastline of North Cornwall provides many a trad classic to lure in those who seek adventure and adrenaline rushes, but until now has had very little in the way of pure power pulling.

Tintagel North Image Gallery

Bouldering in this part of the world is limited and searching for more has always been fuelled by optimism rather than knowledge. However, in January 2009 a new discovery was made. Just 500m north of the notorious Tintagel Head and roughly 300m south of the classic, Mick Fowler route ‘Cockney Disorder’, lies a collection of premium Atlantic rock, in the form of three very large boulders surrounded by a further fourteen smaller ones. The boulders are formed by a mix of Lava and Tuff, creating a very hard and compact rock. For climbers these boulders provide possibly the best low to mid grade bouldering on the north coast of Devon and Cornwall. With development by (semi) local Tom Newberry and friends, a vast amount of problems ranging from 3/V0 to 7c/V9 have been climbed as well as several easy micro routes. However, the 3/V0 to 7a/V6 range provides the meat of what’s on offer. The venue makes for an excellent circuit, as unlike most neighbouring spots all the problems are in close proximity to each other. Landings are generally good with one or two pads being more than sufficient, the only downside being the severely abrasive nature of the rock, which can wear through even the toughest skin in no time. With coastal bouldering gaining more and more popularity in the region, Superbloc has come up with the much needed goods and is a must visit for any keen boulder.

Tides and Conditions
It is usually possible to climb during most tides, with the exception of a very big swell or gusty onshore winds. However, to access all the boulders a low to mid tide is required. A major plus point is that the main central area is not affected by neap high tides, this makes for a perfect choice when the weather is good but the tides are not. As an added bonus it is almost impossible to get cut off from the escape path, so you can really push it without worrying. The blocks are fairly sheltered and are shaded from the sun for all but a short time, allowing for good conditions when the temperature does rise. The rock dries quickly and very few lines suffer from seepage.

Top 5 Problems
RAINBOW TRAIL(5c) – is a brilliant problem and perfect place to start the session. This climbs the rising lip adjacent side of the ‘Purple Haze’ arch using some very large jugs from a SDS.

THE BLACK CRACK (6a+) – is located around the corner on the obvious square boulder, the diagonal crack splits the central seaward face. A SDS start leads to tricky moves to gain the top. The traverse of this wall in either direction is also worthwhile at a similar grade.

BLUE RAY (6c) – climbs the board like face, from sitting, on positive edges to a highball finish. This is found round the back of the first big block. Various sequences exist, although each is as difficult as the next. Opposite is an open project which climbs a thin wall using micro edges and a very slopey pocket.

PURPLE HAZE (7a) – has all the qualities of a great problem and is a contender for the best problem on the coast if not the south-west. This climbs out of the boulder arch from sitting, veering slightly left on small edges to a big crux move and a high but easy finish. A right-hand version exists at a similar grade.

KIDS (7b+) – represents the steepest and hardest offering to date and climbs explosively out a steep cave. From a sit start on two neighbouring sidepull crimps, a powerful and burly first move leads into some pleasant steep climbing. This can be found at the back of the main sector sandwiched between two of the large boulders. Starting two moves in is also good and weighs in around (6C+).

'SHARMAJECTION’ (the big traverse) is also worth a mention and climbs three sides of the first big boulder, staying low, from R-L. If the lip is strictly followed then this pumpy edition feels about French 7c/+ or 7b/V8.

Directions
Tintagel (PL34 if you need directions) is a popular tourist town located on the north Cornish coast approximately half way between Padstow and Bude. There are several car parks dotted around town. The boulders are located on a wave cut platform near the bay situated between Castle Beach and Bossiney Cove. From town, the easiest way to find the well hidden location is to head to the King Arthur’s Castle Hotel (well signposted) from here follow the coastal path north until you go through a small gate where the prominent headland of Willapark Cliff can be seen. Continue for roughly 150m until a small rocky outcrop is on your right (inland side). Now a small path between the heather drops down steeply towards the sea, follow this all the way, bearing rightwards, until the main boulders are clearly visible on the right. When wet the rock can get extremely slippery under foot so take care. From car to crag should take about 15 minutes. The boulders continue round into the bay and can be accessed through either a small boulder archway or over the scree slope at the base of the cliff. There are currently no access issues or bird bans in this area.

Overview Map

Download: Printer Friendly PDF Version
Tom has assembled this information into an printer firiendly "in the field" document. This can be downloaded/printed via the file situated in our "Downloads" section here.