Area & Style of Climbing
Joe’s Valley - Bouldering

Location
USA, Utah, South West

Overview
A world renowned sandstone bouldering area, made famous by the likes of Ben Moon and Chris Sharma. Featuring stunning lines on, generally, freestanding water and weatherworn blocks in the canyons and foothills of where the Wasatch Plateau meets the plains of south central Utah.

Despite its relatively recent “discovery”, in the early 1990’s, the venue has rapidly risen through the ranks of North America’s best and most visited bouldering areas. Huge quantities of blocks litter the hillside (not all of them climbed on) containing literally hundreds of awesome problems, via cracks, walls, prows and roofs.

Best Time to Go & Conditions
Situated where the high desert country meets the Wasatch mountains, at an elevation of around 2000m, the best conditions generally occur in early winter (September-November) and early spring (March-May). Summer is pretty much a no-go, with temperatures soaring into high thirties. Rain is a rarity; however, if you do encounter a shower or two the boulders dry quickly.

Image top right: The Angler, V2.

Getting There
The nearest long haul destination airports are Salt Lake City (150 miles/3hrs north) or Las Vegas (375 mile/6hrs southwest).

Once in the vicinity of Joe’s, the nearest “city” (read big town) is Price; 40 miles to the north, this hosts the usual selection of restaurants, fast food outlets, Wal-mart style supermarkets etc. However, the smaller towns of Huntington (20miles) and Castle Dale (10miles) are far closer and offer most of the required amenities.



Accessibility
The climbing is generally easy to access, and the majority of the blocks at the original areas (Left and Right Fork) are roadside. New Joe’s, including the popular “Area 51” – home of the Ben Moon classic, Black Lung – is a little more of a walk-in (around 20 minutes), as the dirt access track you are told to follow (in the Wolverine Guide) is now closed (by a locked gate) to all vehicles. Climbing is still permitted, although you must now park at the gateway (don’t obstruct it) and walk from here.

The climbing at Joe’s is located on National Forestry lands and at present has little or no access issues. However, as per every other well used venue, please respect the area, do not damage foliage and take all rubbish home.

Image: Nerve Extension, V10


Accommodation & Provisions
As the area on which Joe’s Valley resides is part of the Manti-La Sal National Forest, you can wild camp pretty much anywhere. In the few areas you aren't allowed, signs are usually displayed. Most people seem to plump for the flat, open and scenic parking areas a third of the way down the Right Fork. The land around New Joe’s is part of local oil drilling operations, as such camping and fires are strictly prohibited in this area.

If you are after a purpose built campsite, with all of the usual amenities – picnic tables, fire pits and bathroom facilities – then the Joe's Valley Reservoir Campground, at the top of the Left Fork is open year round.

The nearest motel options are in Castle Dale and Huntington, although there isn’t much choice as both places host only one motel and it’s the same (Village Inn Motel - pictured left) franchise in both towns. These motels are reasonably priced ($45 per night) and well kept. For the size of the place, there is a surprisingly large supermarket in Castle Dale, in which you should be able to find all the provisions you require. There is also a garage and a couple of restaurant/fast food outlets.

Guide Book/s
Title: Utah Bouldering, by Wolverine Publishers / Price: £17.95
Title: A Bouldering Guide To Utah, by Baldwin, Beck, and Russo / Price: $35.00 (Unavailable in the UK)

Grade Spread and Recommended Routes
Hundreds of problems from V0 to V13, with the best problems being in the low to mid grades. A few of my favorite problems included, The Angler V2, Get Shorty (V3), Hand Crack (V3), Get Funky (V4), Pocket Rocket (V6), Resident Stand-Up (V8), Feels Like Grit (V8), The Hulk (V9), Foxy Whore (V9) and Resident Evil (V10).

General Tip/s
Fortunately, Castle Dale has a State Liquor Store, which means that you have easy access to booze stronger than the maximum 3.2% offered in the standard grocery outlets of Utah - if you're so inclined.

Take all your climbing paraphernalia (tape, chalk, extra boots etc.) as the nearest climbing store (Mountain Works) is over 1.5 hours drive away, in Provo.

Useful Links
Air Travel: ebookers.com
Rental Car: www.holidayautos.co.uk
Buy the guide book here: Utah Bouldering Guide