I don’t know why I’m writing this article because I don’t really want Erraid to get any busier than it already is. Which is, no one else there on my last two trips; that’s about right for me. Still, its not as if it hasn’t already been well publicised. There’s even a picture of Julian Lines climbing there on the front cover of Garry Latter’s Scottish Rock Volume 1. The chapter in the guide itself is dripping with mouth watering shots of perfect granite and sun.

The Erraid Gallery

So, why not go? Well, its a long way from anywhere, the ferry is expensive, the routes aren't that long, there might be midges, takes about an hour to walk in, you might get lonely. Yeah, best stop reading now.

Still here? Ok, if you like climbing destinations that take a bit of effort to reach aren’t swarming with dogs and kids, where the climbing is just one of many reasons to visit then Erraid might be for you.

How to get there
Traveling from the Highlands, take the Corran Ferry (runs every 20mins) and drive down to Lochaline (know locally as the LA Ferry), where you take a second ferry across to Fishnish on Mull. The drive from Fishnish is about 1 hour 15 mins, mostly on singe track. Traveling time from Aviemore is at least 3 hours depending on how you hit the ferries.

From the south you can take a single ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull. The down side being that the Craignure Ferry is the single most expensive Cal Mac crossing in the Isles. Once at Craignure it’s a good hour driving down the Ross of Mull to Fionnnphort. I haven’t done this crossing but it works well for getting a 7am ferry on Saturday morning and a 5pm or 7pm back on Sunday.

Where to Stay
There are B&Bs in Bunessan, and Fionnphort (pronounced 'Fin-a-Four'), or there is a very nice camp site at Fidden close to Fionnphort .

Food & Drink
Shockingly there ARE good pubs at both Fionnphort and Bunessan both of which serve bar meals. There is a good Spar at Bunessan (pronounced 'Bu-nessan' and not 'Bunny-san' as some half wit came out with on the way back from the crag).

The Upper Tier

Other Things to See
Mull is a wildlife paradise and has become increasingly popular since the reintroduction of Sea Eagles. If you are interested in birds there’s lots to see as well as otters, dolphins, porpoises and Minke whales.

Ben More is on Mull which is an isolated Munro and worth bagging if you need to remove it from your list.

Generally the land and seascape are astounding and just traveling about the island is interesting in itself.

More about Mull on Wikipedia.

The Climbing

Most of the routes are 10m to 15m long on perfect compact granite. If you like granite cracks, Erraid has lots, and offers a purity of technique rarely found in other parts of the UK. Taping up is recommended for some routes. Many of the climbs start from idilic grassy terraces well above the sea. Some require a short abseil so its worth taking an spare abseil rope for convenience. There is some spectacular looking deep water soloing and endless bouldering potential. You will need to be climbing at least HVS to get the most out of the area. There are a few easier routes but they are often strenuous for the grade.

Rack
As many cams as you can muster and a double set of nuts. You can easily pare your rack for each route, but some cracks require multiple cams of the same size so you need to bring doubles if possible. The largest cam you might need would probably be a BD Camalot 4 or equivalent.

Fionnphort, the bouldering is on the hillside behind the village.

When To Go
Potentially Erraid has a long season. Much of the climbing is southwest facing and the climate is mild. Locals climb there even in December. Spring is probably the best time. Mid summer has the midge issue but there is often an off shore breeze which keeps them at bay. I had two excellent trips there in September and October 2009

Weather
The weather on the Ross of Mull is often a lot better than on the main land or even the rest of Mull. It’s a bit of a risk if you’re traveling a long way but don’t write it off Erraid just because its raining everywhere else.

Neighboring Areas
Scoor is close by and also in Scottish Rock Volume 1. The rock here is mica shist, and the climbing style quite different. There are loads of good routes but the gear is more subtle and requires a different approach to that of Erraid.

Basalt Climbing at Ardtun

 Ardtun is on the opposite coast of the Ross to Scoor. The rock is different again, being basalt. There are lots of routes, many of them stared. The climbing is not in the same calibre as Erraid but still well worth a visit. You need the old SMC Skye and Hebrides Volume 2 for Ardtun. A new guide is in the making but don’t hold your breath.

Iona is a short ferry trip from Fionnphort. There are several good looking crags with plenty of stared routes (I haven’t been there yet).

There are some documented bouldering areas on the hill side north of Fionnphort. Just driving around, there appears to be lots of bouldering potential all over the place. Some exploration would very likely bare fruit.

Local climber and guide book writer Colin Moody has an excellent photo gallery for Erraid and Mull in general.