Dragon Cams have to be one of DMM's most eagerly awaited products to join the DMM range. Since early samples of the double-axle single stem camming devices were shown at Friedrichshafen last July (2009), the anticipation among retailers and climbers has steadily been growing.

Right: Close up view of the beautifully crafted size 4 DMM Dragon Cam.

The cams have evolved a great deal over the last eight months, with the biggest development being the anodised aluminium thumb grip for secure and easy placement. Having a concave and grooved surface, the thumb termination also allows you to quickly place the unit with either your thumb or the palm of your hand. The latter option is likely to be particularly useful in winter if wearing big gloves.

This cleverly designed thumb grip houses a doubled 8mm dyneema sling. It extends to 25cm, with the clear advantage of reducing the number of quick draws that have to be carried. Each end of the sling can be clipped and used as a runner if necessary while still retaining full strength.

DMM Climbing Sales Director, Simon Marsh, explained why a standard wire loop couldn't be used: "Under load the wire loop collapses and the dyneema then surprisingly cuts through it at around 10 kN. The same thing doesn't occur on our 4CUs because the rear spacer stops the wire collapsing. Necessity is definitely the mother of invention. We're really pleased with our solution and have filed for a patent on the design of the thumb termination, which is massively strong and lighter than the steel wire it replaces."

Spearheading the project, DMM's Technical Director, Fred Hall, outlined some of the challenges and thinking behind Dragons design: "These cams have been a real team effort with plenty of challenges along the way. Even getting the plastic sleeve just right was a lot of work. We had to find a way of making it abrasion resistant, yet very flexible across a wide temperature range so it couldn't be easily levered out, but retaining enough rigidity for a positive trigger action. It also rotates to minimise damage when the stem is dragged over edges."

Fred added: "Hot forging the lobes meant we were able to make the cams super strong but also very light. In every orientation, not just the ones dictated by the CE test, they are all rated at 14 kN - 1.4 static tonnes.”

Left: The full range of NEW DMM Dragon Cams in all their glory.

“We decided to stick with Ray Jardine's original 13.75° camming angle as we think it provides the best combination of holding power and range. Increasing the cam angle increases the range but reduces the holding power and vice versa. Relatively strong springs are used so that the units have a greater initial hold against low friction surfaces or flared cracks and resist unwanted movement, giving plenty of positional security."

Dragon Cam Vs A Big (1.3ton) Boulder
There is nothing like seeing theory in practice to fully appreciate the facts and figures behind how well a product works. DMM's Technical Director, Fred Hall, had the idea of cutting a parallel sided slot out of a 1.38 tonne boulder, placing a Dragon Cam 5 in the slot and then lifting the boulder via the Dragon Cam.

At rest the weight of the boulder is equivalent to a static force of 13.8 kN, but as soon as the weight starts to be lifted the force exerted on the cam increases above that figure. All Dragon Cams are certified to a 3 sigma 14 kN, but in testing to failure they far exceed that figure.

Watch the outcome of Dragon Cam versus the weight of a medium sized car below.

It is worth noting that the DMM Dragon cam suffered no ill effects from it ordeal, and still works perfectly after having been used to lift the block.

There are six colour-coded cams in the range, all anodised for fast recognition and corrosion resistance.

Purchase DMM Dragon Cams here.

Information courtesy of www.dmmclimbing.com