I recently returned from a climbing trip to the Island of Barra in the Outer Hebrides. Barra is better know as the jumping off point for the fantastic climbing on Pabbay and Mingulay to the south. As a result the climbing potential on Barra itself has been largely ignored as most people only spend a night there between ferry trips back to the mainland.

This was my third trip to the island in 12 month with new route activists Colin Moody, Cynthia Grindley and Pete Whillance. The principal climbing areas are on the west side of the island so not seen from any ferry or road. Colin was tipped off about the hidden climbing potential in 2002 by a friend, Billy Hood, who canoed around Vatersay (the neighbouring island). The same year Kev Howett had an accident on Mingulay. While he was being treated at the hospital on Barra and waiting for the next ferry back to Oban he explored the cliffs on the west coast. Colin eventually made it to the island in 2008 with Cynthia Grindley and started to work away at the vast areas of unclimbed rock.

In the spring of 2009 I joined Colin, Cynthia, Pete Whillance and Jonathan Lagoe for my first trip to Barra. The following week Steve Crowe and Karen Magog had a few days bagging some hard routes on the way back from Mingulay.

The new route tally has increased again this year to the point where there a substantial number of routes on the island ranging from Diff to E6 on cliffs of every aspect.

The fantastic 'Classic Corner'  at Breaker Wall, E3 5c.

The Climbing
The rock is  excellent rough Gneiss interspersed with basalt. Most routes are well protected. Some of the polished black rock near the sea is more difficult to protect but still offers excellent climbing.

Many routes are accessed by a single abseil, so a static rope is useful; 50M or 60M even better. There are a few crags which can be approached by foot which are useful in bad weather.

There is lots of bouldering potential. If you walk from the Vatersy causeyway you will pass some good boulders in the first 30 seconds followed by the amazing Wave Wall after 15 mins or so.

Adi Gill has done some bouldering at Clach Mhor nan Gleannan, just south of the airfield, and has some good photos on his Flickr account

The hills of Barra and Vatersay abound with small crags and some further exploration would likely yield lots of good bouldering venues.

Gear
A normal trad rack should suffice with Rocks 1 to 10 and cams to 4. Small cams are essential to protect some of the harder routes.

How to Get There
You can fly from Glasgow but most people take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay on Barra. Its a 5 hour 30 min trip so a fairly long journey if you are travelling form the south.

Flights: www.isleofbarra.com  Tel: 01871 890212 from Glasgow.

The second pitch of 'The Darkness Beckons' E4 6a, on the impressive Black and Tans wall. (Colin Moody Photo)

 Once on the island you could use a bike to access the climbing areas. It's only a 20 min ride to the causeway at Vatersay which is where you start walking to most of the routes. A bike would also greatly reduce the cost of the ferry tickets to £22 per person return, saving you £102 on not taking a car.

Accommodation
Castlebay is a good central location stay but there is no campsite so you will have to stay in the bunk house: Dunard Hostal Tel: 01871 810443  or find a B&B.

There are lots of B&B's but not not much immediate availability so plan ahead. The local web site is very good www.isleofbarra.com

Camping is possible in many areas but the locals would rather people used sites with toilets. There is camping with a water tap and toilet at the village hall on Vatersay. Honesty box system. Another possible spot is at Eoligarry, just north of the airport on the north east coast of Barra, where there are toilets but its a long cycle to the climbing areas.

Food
There is a new Coop in Castlebay as well other grocery stores, post office and paper shop. There are two pubs both serving bar meal and a small cafe/restaurant down by the harbour.

Amenities

The community centre in Castlebay has web access and a swimming pool and showers. You can also take a shower on the boat if you need to ( as long as you're on the 'Clansman' and not 'The Lord of The Isles')

Idilic bouldering at Wave Wall

Maps

Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger 31 and 1:25,000 Explorer 452

Guide Book

The SMC are in the progress of writing a new guide to the Islands but don't hold you breath, its been several years in production already.

In the mean time Colin Moody has published a simple text guide of the best routes and principal climbing areas which should be enough to keep you going.

Colin Moody's Barra Slide Show

Colin Moody's Barra Guide (appearing soon)

If you liked the accordion playing you can watch the full 8 and half minutes here