Charlotte Dome is a mega classic which should be on the 'to do list' of any rock climber visiting the High Sierra mountains of California. This awesome 1,200 foot dome is situated in the middle of the Sierra a long, long way from the trail head. Although the climbing is not difficult the long approach, mountain weather and logistical considerations mean that failure is a distinct possibility for the unprepared. This only goes to make a successful ascent all the more satisfying and memorable.

When to go
Snow may be an problem in the spring to early summer. August should be clear of snow but may be too warm. Mid September to mid October is the best time to go. The down side of an early autumn attempt are the shorter days but the approach trails are easy to follow and a couple of hours walking in darkness at either end of the day shouldn't put you off.

Logistics
The big question is 'in a day' or not and the answer to that will depend on how fit you are. This is probably not a route you could do straight off the plane without any acclimatisation, but if you choose to go at the end of a trip as I did, then you should have a greater chance of going light and fast.

The 'in a day' approach has lots of advantages such as, less gear to carry, shorter weather window required, no need for wilderness permit, no bear problems and maximum satisfaction. Many teams opt for a full day's walking each way, plus a day on the route but a reasonable compromise would be to camp for one night at the junction of the John Muir Trail (if approaching from the east), where there are bear boxes, and go for the long trudge out after doing the route the next day.

Alternatively, there are camping/bivi spots at the base of the route and on the western approach.

The Route
The climbing mainly follows slabby cracks, big knobs and flutings. There's no all out friction climbing of the kind you may have experienced in Tuolumne. The climbing steepens up slightly in the middle of the route for a short pitch of 5.8. Protection is good. See the guide books for a detailed description.

Image: High on Charlotte Dome.

The Rack
You don't need anything special. A reasonable technical rack will do the trick. Rocks 1-10 with a few doubles, cams to 1-3, a good selection of slings and maybe a dozen draws of varying lengths. We took a single 10mm rope which would be more hassle if you have to retreat but still possible. A pair of light double ropes would work well too e.g. 8.5mm x 50m


Stats
First Ascent: Galen Rowell, Chris Jones, Fred Beckey October 1970.
Approach: 12 miles with 2600ft of ascent and the same on the way back meaning that you are looking at a 24 mile round trip with 6,200 ft of ascent including the route.

My Notes
Climbed on 12/10/02 with Peter Coward. Total elevation gain of 6400ft according to our Avocet watch. Started walking at 5.30am and got back to the car at 7.21pm. Spent 3:30hrs climbing and 10:21hrs walking.

Image: Topo page ripped from The Good, 'The Great and The Awesome'. Please buy the book rather than printing this image.

Fitness
Make sure you have some altitude training under your belt. The route itself may not casue you any problems but the approach over the pass at 11,800 feet might hold you back a bit. Here are some some possible warm up routes:

Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak III 5.6 – Not too high and not too long with a short approch. A good first route to do in the back country.

Northeast Ridge of Bear Creek Spire class 4 - A scramble with a moderate approach which gets you high up in fantastic mountain scenery. Have breakfast at Tom's Place before you set off.

Image: Good holds near the top of the South Face.

West Ridge of Mount Conness IV 5.6 – Lots of easy climbing with a moderate easily accessible approach but it gets you to 12,500 feet on the summit of Conness.

Regular Route on Fairview Dome III 5.9 - Technically harder than Charlotte Dome and less sustained but you will experience what it feels like to be on a big chunk of rock and if you can complete the route without any problems you can be confident about the technical difficulties on Charlotte Dome.

The Approach
Your approach is going to depend on which side the Sierra you are based. It's a long drive from the east side round to Kings Canyon in the west and probably not worth the saving in walking time. The eastern approach is a couple of miles longer and has slightly more elevation but its cooler (temperature) and has great views of the Sierra crest from the Kearsarge Pass. Everyone I have talked to recommends the eastern approach.

Image: Heading down from Kearsage Pass on the approach.

Route finding on the approach is straight forward from the east to the junction of the JMT. From here on follow a smaller path which eventually deteriorates as you get closer to the dome. Traversing the slope at the right level is tricky over the last mile but you can see the dome ahead so at least you have something to aim for. See the guide books for a detailed description.

Clothing
It will be chilly early in the morning (below freezing) but you shouldn't need more than some thin fleece pants and top with a light waterproof shell. Wear shorts underneath so you can strip down when it gets warmer.

Image: The last of the sun from the summit of Kearsarge Pass on the way home.

Tips
If approaching from the east leave some tasty food in the bear boxes at the junction with the JMT to collect on the return trip.

I have never bothered purifying water in the High Sierra and have never had any problems. I took that lead from my American chums who do the same. Be sensible and stay clear of camping areas and still water. Ideally, use fast flowing streams coming off slopes with no trails above.

Image: Those bears are hungry! Claw marks on the steel bear box at the junction with the JMT.

Guide Books
My favorite Sierra Guide is 'The Good, The Great, And The Awesome' by Peter Croft. Not available in the UK. ISBN 0-9676116-4-4

Another good guide, if a little less inspiring, is 'California's High Sierra' by John Moynier and Claude Fiddler ISBN 0-7627-1085-3

A very detailed guide which is available in the UK, SuperTopo's 'High Sierra Climbing' by Chris McNamara ISBN 0-9672391-8-4