I have more than once fought the corner for south west climbing. Along with Sharpnose, Ansteys Cove provides the core of my ammunition. What it lacks in quantity it sure makes up for in quality, as the guidebook puts it “if Carlsberg did climbing crags”. With arguably the best 7b, 7c+, 8a and 8b in the country all at the same scenic seaside crag! “Outrage”…….“how dare he”……. I hear you cry; well, before you write me off, why don’t you come down and see for yourself?

Image: Luke Dawson on Empire of the Sun, f7b.

Background
Ansteys Cove can be found on the south coast of Devon (just a 30 minute drive south of Dartmoor) in the “English Riviera” of Torquay. The compact limestone provides possibly the best sporting venue for routes 7b and above in the south of England. The crag compromises of three sectors; each offers a contrast in style and difficulty all set above a scenic cove of clear blue water. The climbing tends to be overhanging on positive holds and generally the routes are fairly stiff for the grade. To get the most out of a visit preferably you will want to be climbing in the 7’s. The only downside, bar Torquay’s high chav population, is its reputation for bold starts and fluttery run-outs, however more bolts are appearing all the time and some may be pleased (whilst others disappointed) to hear that the start of Empire now has a lower first bolt. While on the subject of bolts, rumours are that some routes are to be re-equipped in the near future.

For those of you looking to make a weekend of it, nearby Torbryan offers similarly good climbing at a slightly tamer level, with Mayday 6c+ and Threadbare 7a+ being the stand out routes. Also those tempted to spice up their lives with a bit of DWS, Berry Head is not far away, with the classics lines such as White Rhino Tea 7a and the epically long sea traverse Rainbow Bridge 7a+.

History
First developments at the crag started during the late seventies with the addition of classic trad routes like Cocytus E2 6a and The Mitre E3 6b. However, it was 1988 that marked the start of Ansteys vibrant modern climbing scene, with “much abseiling, cleaning, gearing, practising and swearing” and the addition of Martin Crocker’s controversial drilled pegs on the Empire Wall. 1988 was also the year Nick White left his mark, adding several mid grade classics including How the Mighty Fall 7a+, Empire of the Sun 7b, La Crème 7c+ and The Cider Soak 8a. Moving into the early nineties and it was all about one man, the hugely underrated local hero that is Ken Palmer. He added desperate classic after desperate classic, with lines such as Tuppence 8a+/b in 1990, A Fisherman’s Tale 8b in 1991 and Poppy 8b+ in 1994.

Fast forward several years to 2003 and the arrival of Brian 8c. Kenny’s awesome link-up of the Ferocity Wall provided Ansteys biggest number to date and one of the hardest routes south of the peak district. An incredible effort and inspiring piece of climbing. Caught on video here...

 
Routes
It’s time to warm-up, but how do you get warm at a crag so steep and apparently hardcore? Well, for many their first port of call is Might and Main 6c. This takes the arête to the right of Empire and with the fairly recent independent finish is a lovely climb. Next stop is How the Mighty Fall 7a+, a bit of a Marmite route; you’ll either love it or hate it. Despite receiving a fluttery E5 6a in the guidebook, Devonshire Cream is a great 6c+ if you manage to pre-clip the first bolt at 20ft. You should now be sufficiently warmed up to move back to the Empire Wall and attack the big one, Empire of the Sun 7b. Well equipped with good crimps and jugs it’s best to take it at pace. If this goes down quickly then similarly its neighbour, Just Revenged 7c+, ticks all the boxes.

Now moving through the grades quickly, we find ourselves at the bottom of the Ferocity Wall, steep, crimpy and unrelenting. First up is The Cider Soak 8a, a route that should be on everyone’s tick list. Fantastic power-endurance climbing all the way to the final heartbreak move makes it a worthy contender for the best of its grade. La Crème 7c+ is also worthwhile with a crux that could be the hardest move on the wall. Tuppence 8a+/b has three distinct cruxes separated by some quality climbing. The extension Tuppence Ha’penny 8b adds some meaty 7c climbing to create a long pumpy number. In contrast, A Fishermans Tale 8b starts with an intense bouldery crux above which the climbing eases, but still requires some umpff. Finally, the link of Cider Soak into the top section of the previous route via some slopey holds and a bit of trickery is Poppy 8b+, again considered hard for the grade.

After these top draw routes, there are still a couple of projects and the numerous three star link ups: Not Just Empire 7c, Avenged 7c+, Cyberdog 8a+, Pet Cemetry 8a+...

Image: Mike Adams working crag classic, The Cider Soak, f8a.

  Conditions
The walls tend to be a bit of a sun trap (if there is any sun around Torquay is likely to get it), so in the summer you may wish to time your redpoint attempts to follow the shade. The Empire Wall in the morning/early afternoon and the Ferocity Wall receiving shade in the late afternoon/evening. Although a sea breeze often helps. As with most limestone crags, the routes are prone to seepage through wet periods, especially the Empire Wall and Cider Soak. However, most routes can stay dry during light rain; nevertheless, it is not a wet weather venue. This Torquay webcam is useful, and can be found here.

Equipment
Ten quickdraws and a 50m rope will be sufficient for most of the routes. Some routes still require the odd piece of gear; however, most of the classics are adequately bolted. As previously mentioned, some routes are bolted sportingly with the first bolt some way off the deck, so I would thoroughly recommend packing a clip stick (available in various lengths here). For a guidebook on Ansteys Cove, there are two choices; the current climbers club South Devon and Dartmoor Guide by Nick White is old but still fairly up to date; the Dorset RockFax by Mark Glaister and Pete Oxley also covers the main routes at the crag. Both guidebooks can be purchased here.

Directions
To get to Torquay use either the A380 (from Exeter) or the A385 (from Totnes). On arrival in Torquay follow signs for ‘Babbacombe’, this leads to a Garden Centre where you can park free of charge. Walk back out of the car park and take a left up a small lane which leads to ‘Walls Hill Downs’. From here head slightly right across the common land to a wooden fence. This brings you to a set of old concrete steps and a sign reading ‘Beach Closed’, scurry down these until a small path brings you to the base of the Empire Wall.

Thanks to Chris Barr for the use of his photos.