Article: Hueco Tanks Bouldering

Overview:
Situated in a relatively high-altitude desert basin between the Franklin Mountains to the west and the Hueco Mountains to the east Hueco Tanks is an impressive sight. Its natural battlements and fortifications strike a stark contrast to the surrounding “flatlands” and seen in the fading light the area has an almost other worldly ambiance. The word Hueco derives from the Spanish word for hollow and refers to the varying sized in cut bowl-like features splattered across the crags, boulders and pavements. These hollows where used as miniature reservoirs or “tanks” by the Native American Indians (Apache’s) who called the area home from around 1500AD until the 18th century.

Considered by many to be the most compactly concentrated source of high class bouldering (of all grades) in the USA, Hueco is a must visit destination for all diehard blocsport fans. With thousands of problems and an awesome winter climate it's not hard to see why thousands of people make a yearly pilgrimage to “The Tanks”. Even with the continuing bureaucracy added in the late 1990’s Hueco is still an incredible place to visit.


General Information:
The bouldering at Hueco Tanks is situated around 25 miles east of El Paso, Texas within the Hueco Tanks Historic State Park. The fact that it is in a state historic park means that there are lots of rules to know and follow. As of November 2007 the entrance fee to the park was $4 per person.


You have two realistic options when visiting the park. First up, you could base your attack plan around the self-guided area of North Mountain; you will need to pre-book reservations to guarantee this option - for reservations more than 24 hours in advance, call the Austin reservation service at 1-512-389-8900. Alternatively, if you wish to visit more of the areas you can book (at the Hueco Tanks HQ) a guide to take you around the other sectors. If you get lucky a registered guide who wishes to go climbing may take you for free, although if this is not possible, or you’re after visiting to a specific area, a commercial guide can be hired (book at least 24 hours in advance) for groups upward of 8 people, this works out at around $10 each. Before entering the park you will be required to watch a 20 minute orientation video regarding the history of the park, explaining the do’s and don’ts of the area.

Photo: Sam Cattell on Full Service V10


The park itself is broken up into four areas or “mountains”; North Mountain, East Mountain, West Mountain and East Spur. As explained above, with the exception of North Mountain, you must have a guide and be a part of a tour to climb in any of the areas.

Getting there:
You can fly to Hueco’s nearest city (El Passo, Texas) from a number of major UK airports, with most flights going via either Chicago or New York. Ebookers.com is a good port call for the various connotations and a flight quote. Once in El Paso the state park is approximately 25 miles east along Highway 180 (Montana Blvd). Where the road begins to fade into one lane (right lane ends) there will be a left turn and a sign indicating Hueco Tanks Historic State Park is 8 miles to the north - look out for the Flying Saucer shaped building.

When to go:
The winter season is the primo time to visit Hueco (November through to March) with temperatures varying from 5 to 22 degrees, plenty of sunshine and very low rainfall, it makes for great climbing conditions. Be warned if you are camping temperatures often fall well below freezing during the night so bring a decent sleeping bag, tent and plenty of warm clothes.


Where to stay:
Camping: Rock Ranch & State Park Campsite - The Hueco Rock Range is close to the park although you will need to drive in each day. It costs $5/night per person and tends to accomadate large numbers of climbers. There is a common area indoors (barn) to hang out and here you can sign up for any commercial tours. The barn contains board games, a TV, table football and a small climbing outlet.

The state park campground, that as of January 2007 cost $14/night (with water and electricity), is a bit swankier and situated within the park itself. The disadvantage of the state park campground is that they lock the gate at 6pm each day so even on rest days you have to be back in the park by six. That said, the state park does have nicer facilities and is usually quieter, plus you can walk to the bouldering from here. There are some weird rules in the park though; such as only being able to register a site for 3 days at a time under one name (this is the same throughout the US state park system) and each vehicle can only be on the same site for 6 nights in a row after which you'll have to move sites. You also have to pay the $4 park entry fee even if you are not climbing a day. The $4 park entry fee is waived if you or a person in the same vehicle has a Texas State Park Pass.

Photo: Neil Kershaw on Daily Dick Dose V7


Hotels: If you’re after something a little more civilized there are numerous hotels/motels in El Paso, and, as you're there in the "off season", if you’re prepared to hunt/haggle around you can get a pretty good deal on a room – if there are enough of you it’s even possible to get some digs that works out even cheaper than camping! On the down side you’re going to have to trawl the 25 miles, there and back, to the park on each climbing day.

Amenities:
Despite what the guide book intimates there is a small amount of climbing gear available for purchase at the Rock Ranch, including chalk, tape and crash pads.

The nearest supermarket to the park (11.1 miles) is Vista Mercado, which is on the left when following Montana back toward El Paso. For the nearest petrol station and cash machine head for Phillips 66, this is also on Montana 11.3 miles from the park on the right. If you’re after internet access there are dozens of coffee shops and Wi-fi hot spots in El Paso itself.

Photo: Neil Kershaw on Baby Face Arete V7


Useful beta:
You can buy a Texas State Parks pass for $60 (one name) or $75 (two names). The pass allows entry into the park for everyone in the same vehicle as the pass-holder. Therefore if you are planning on climbing with just one other person you will make your money back within 8 days of climbing. The Texas State Parks Pass will be available at most state parks and historic sites, as well as through the Customer Service Center in Austin, Texas (1-512-389-8900).

If you know the dates you will be in Hueco then I’d recommend making a reservation for every day you will be there. Again there are some twists to this such as you can only reserve three days in a row under one name. However you can reserve under your name for two people, then have your partner reserve under their name for two people. For rest days you can cancel your reservation and the money will be refunded to your credit card.

Photo: Simon Moore on Loaded with Power V9


If you don't have reservations then you can wait at the gate in the morning and the first 10 people will be allowed to get a pass for climbing at North Mountain. If you stay in the state park you can get to the office before 8am and will have a better chance of being one of the first 10 people. As pointed out earlier, signing up for a volunteer tour will only get you in the park if a volunteer guide shows up. Hiring a commercial guide is a guaranteed way to get in the park and go where you want, but you can't go to North Mountain on a tour.

Classic Ticks by Grade


* For further inspiration check out the Best of the West DVD here.
* Purchase the Hueco bouldering guide here.

Metolius Hardware Promotion

Amendment 26/11/07: THIS OFFER HAS NOW ENDED

As part of the UK re-launch of the revamped Metolius Hardware range, we are running a dual promotion to kick start the winter season and give you, the customer, access to some formidable offers!

If you purchase any climbing hardware from the Metolius Promotion section of our site, you will automatically have access to prices at least 15% less than the standard RRP. On top of this, if you purchase £20.00 or more of ANY products from the Metolius Promotion section you will be automatically entered in to a free prize draw, and could win three Metolius cams of your choice (1st prize), a single Metolius cam of your choice (2nd prize) or a Metolius beanie (3rd prize).

List of products included in offer:

• Freenut Extractor
• Ultralight TCU Cams [Individual]
• Ultralight TCU Cams [Sets]
  
• Ultralight Curved Nuts [Individual]
  
• Ultralight Curved Nuts [Set]
  
• Ultralight Powercams [Individual]
  
• Ultraight Powercams [Sets]
  
• Supercams
• The BRD

OFFERS END: 9am on Friday the 23rd November 2007 (the prize draw will take place the following Monday).

To find out more about Metolius hardware check out this excellent independent review by Dave Westlake.

Review: Metolius Hardware 2007

This review was written and researched by Dave Westlake. Right, Dave grabbing a quick ascent of Brad Pitt Font7c/+ at Stanage, Derbyshire.

Dave is from Devon but based in Nottingham and works as a Research Associate at the Centre for Child and Family Research at Loughborough University.

Dave has been climbing off and on since about 2000, is a great all-rounder and has climbed in the UK and abroad extensively over the last seven years. He has climbed Font7c+/8a, redpointed F8a and has a good tally of E5 onsights to his name, as well as number of E6's ground up. With this in mind Dave is well placed to give us his thoughts on the freshly updated Metolius Hardware range...

Introduction

For many UK based climbers, Metolius may not be the first brand to spring to mind when they think of replacing bits of their rack. Loyalties to UK based manufacturers run deep over here and it is no coincidence that the likes of Wild Country and DMM are the leading brands in the domestic market.

My own trad rack reflects this allegiance to ‘home-grown’ products. However, after testing it for a few weeks I was pleasantly surprised at just how well the Metolius kit compared, and I would rate certain pieces above any other gear I have used. It would be very difficult to match the Supercams, for example, if a versatile and reliable large cam is what you’re after. Likewise, the Ultralight nuts would make an excellent addition to anyone’s harness.


I used the gear on various rock types, but primarily on the gritstone of the peak district and the Culm (a type of sandstone) found on the coast of North Devon and Cornwall. The following should give you an overview of the products and the lowdown on the features I liked most (and least!).

Original Curve Nut Set RRP £70.00

Lets begin with the staple ingredient of anyone’s trad rack: a set of ‘wires’ sized 1-10.

The first thing you notice about these is the clean and consistent use of colour. The anodized heads match the collars and this makes it very easy to distinguish the sizes from one another. I’ve always found that colour coded gear really helps when you’re searching round your waist for that all-important ‘number 3’ nut. Having a simple and consistent system to work with makes the task much easier and often saves valuable time and energy.

Metolius use this system throughout the range. The Powercam 2, for example, is yellow and this matches the curve nut size 2, which is also yellow, and so on. I find user friendly details like this make all the difference when it comes to climbing hardwear – if you don’t believe me try climbing with someone else’s’ rack! (Right: Curved Nut in a flared placement on grit)

Of course, other manufacturers are increasingly using colour coding and although the colours are more distinctive than, say, anodized rocks, this doesn’t really set the Curve Nuts apart. What features might make you choose a set of these over the many other options available? Well, the most important aspect of any nut is the shape, and this is where Curve Nuts stand out from the crowd.

Unlike Wild Country Rocks and DMM Wallnuts, Curve nuts are angled differently so that they curve from side to side rather than top to bottom. The product blurb argues this innovation gives greater stability in flared placements. I was a little skeptical about such claims until I found a good placement in a flared crack at Stanage (mentioned in the route description as a place where “poor wires” could be found!).


Curve Nuts seem to be constructed using slightly softer aluminium to their peers. This makes placements feel additionally secure especially in softer rock types – the rock really seems to ‘bite’ the metal well. The downside of this is of course that durability may be compromised. After placing Curve Nuts a few times the wear and tear was beginning to show, although the anodized finish makes scratches more noticeable. Constructing gear from softer metals is always going to compromise the durability to some extent, but in my view the compromise is not such that it will wear out that much quicker than other metals, and the benefits in terms of increased holding power are very persuasive. (Right: Curved Nuts after use)

Generally speaking, the Curve Nuts were very impressive, and a good purchase at £70. If like myself, you like to carry 2 sets of Nuts on longer routes, they would definitely be worth considering as that second set and the different shape certainly complemented my set of DMM wallnuts. Having said this, Curve nuts would not be my first choice for this purpose. If you are wondering why not, then read on………

Ultralight Curve Nut Set RRP £80.00

Similar to regular Curve Nuts but 30% lighter! With a release date of Nov 07, these really are the new kids on the block. Essentially they are a slimmed down version of the above. The sizes are the same, but they are noticeably lighter and the savings in weight are made in their construction.

Firstly, the wire is slightly thinner, and instead of the head being ‘slung’, it is connected to the wire in a similar way to brass nuts like RPs and offsets. This soldered construction leaves a smooth profile at the end.

Image: Dave Westlake using Ultralight Nut's on the FA of Two Passports and a Cunning Plan E5 6b at Sharpnose Point


The only drawback to this design that I can think of is that it wouldn’t allow you to pull the head down and loop the wire over a stud or snapped peg. However, I think occasions that require such extreme measures are rare enough that most people would take the 30% weight economy and run! Besides if, like me, you carry more than one type of nut then this is unlikely to be an issue anyway.

The colours of the Ultralights are equally vivid and translate across to both the regular curve nuts and the cams. Both the Original and Ultralight versions of the Curve Nut are easy to use, slotting into placements nicely and seemed easy to remove, unlike wallnuts that I sometimes find stick.

The price (£80) is slightly more than you might expect to pay for a set of wires but there is no doubt in my mind that the extra cash will be worth it for a really groundbreaking product. As you may have guessed – the Ultralight Curve Nuts get my full approval – an excellent new addition to the range!

Ultralight Power Cam RRP £40.00 to 43.00

Anyone who has been to Lower Sharpnose Point in North Cornwall will agree that this is an excellent testing ground for camming devices. The deep breaks eat cams and many visitors are surprised at how quickly they’ve placed all theirs. The perfect venue to put the Power Cams through their paces!


The power cams are the Metolius equivalent to Friends or 4CUs – the workhorse cam in the range designed to be your mainstay for parallel-sided cracks. As such, they need to be easy to use, durable and lightweight, as you are likely to be carrying a fair few of them. (Right: Power Cam in use at Lower Sharpnose Point)

Camming devices are generally based upon either a single or double-stemmed design, and people favour either one of these for various reasons. Power Cams adopt the double-stemmed approach.

Single stemmed units (friends, aliens etc) have some advantages, particularly in smaller sizes - the main one being more flexibility in vertical placements. However, my personal preference rests with double-stemmed units (one of the reasons my cams are mostly DMM 4CUs). So, for me at least, the design boffins at Metolius HQ started off well by designing the units around this structure. I find this design much easier and less fiddly to use and the Power Cams are no exception. The trigger system, like that of the 4CUs, offers a variety of grips for fingers.

One of the ways in which Metolius have improved upon the DMM model is the insertion of small plastic sleeves between the trigger and the stem. This makes the trigger action smoother as it slides over the wire, unlike the 4CUs where after a bit of use (and sea cliff salt!) the metal-on-metal trigger system becomes a bit tired.

As with the other gear, the colour coding works really well and the sizes are easily distinguishable. A very obvious feature is the “traffic light” style markings on the cam heads – known as the “rangefinder”. These are a novel way of indicating the quality of the placement; if the rock is in contact with the green area it’s well placed, the yellow means its OK but a bigger size might be better, and if its on the red then its very marginal.

This reflects Metolius’ obsession with safety (some harnesses in their range even have gear loops that are strength-rated in case you tie into one by mistake!). Cynics might see this as another symptom of America’s risk averse ‘litigation culture’ but I would argue that the traffic light markings have a useful function as a general at-a-glance guide – providing they are not taken too seriously. This is a nice idea and may be very helpful, particularly to people who are less used to placing cams. After all, we sometimes forget how easy it is to place a cam badly!

OK, now for the nitty-gritty! Like the nuts, a reasonably soft metal is used. I am pleased to report though, that after a fair bit of abuse, the cams are wearing very well. Unlike most manufacturers Metolius have gone against traditional thinking on the all important cam angle. Instead of the industry standard 13.75 degrees a smaller angle is used. Along with the spring mechanism this generates a lot of outward force. This is reassuring and when you put them in they feel like they really mean business!

Like all premium brands, Metolius have engineered cam stops into the design of the cams meaning that the units can be placed passively if necessary – in the same way Friends, Camalots and 4CUs.

The only real gripe I have with both these and the Supercams (see below) is the sling – made from sewn dyneema. One of the main reasons I have chosen 4CUs over the years is the doubled-up, extendable sling. This has also been incorporated into WC Zeros to great effect. I always appreciate the economy in the number of quckdraws that need to be carried when I use these units, and part of me really wishes Metolius would follow suit. I suspect that, like Black Diamond, Metolius would defend their decision to use the more durable Nylon slings on grounds of longevity. This is a fair comment, perhaps, as the extendable design does mean that the slings ‘fur up’ much quicker. Like many of these things, I suppose, it really boils down to personal preference.

So, for £43 a piece, are they worth it? Well, having had chance to compare Power Cams with the competition I would have to say that the decision between these and the (similarly priced) 4CUs would be a tough one. If Metolius used an extendable sling then they would undoubtedly get my vote, and they may well do so anyway – I would just have to remember to carry more quickdraws!

Supercam RRP £55.00 to 60.00

And now for something altogether different… The Supercam is unlike any other camming device in a number of key ways. The first thing that strikes you is the radical design of the cams themselves. Instead of the traditional setup the Supercam units incorporate an asymmetric configuration of a pair of large cams working against a pair of small cams. As you might imagine, this gives the device a rather odd ‘lop-sided’ look.

The other key difference lies in the trigger mechanism. Instead of the classic wire design, Metolius have used what they call “soft wire” – thin kevlar cord wrapped around the axle to pull the smaller pair of cams further than the larger pair. This has the advantages of being light, strong and easily field maintainable – worth knowing if you’re heading away on a long trip.

Image: Dave Westlake placing a Supercam on the FA of Two Passports and a Cunning Plan E5 6b at Sharpnose Point


The effect of this is that a much greater range is achieved - reflected by the fact that there are only 3 sizes – small, medium and large. The three options cover an enormous range of sizes.

It’s always nice to try something a bit different and these really were something that I would recommend highly – especially the larger ones. I have used various other large cams in the past but I found Supercams to be much more versatile than most. The added range is really noticeable and when tugged they feel surprisingly solid in some fairly marginal looking placements.

Like the Ultralights, Supercams have machined cam-stops, and the trigger system is very smooth and easy to use with a range of options for your fingers. The sewn nylon sling seems fit to withstand abuse and the traffic light rangefinder gives added reassurance. In fact, this is perhaps more applicable on these units as the range is so much larger than regular cams. (Right: Supercam in action at Stanage, Derbyshire)

They look rather strange when they are placed at the smaller end of the range – reminding me of the odd contortions you often find jammed cams in. Don’t let this put you off, though, as they are easily the most versatile units I’ve ever used (even more so than Camalots).

For this reason, I think the £60 price tag should come as no surprise. Although it might seem like a hefty outlay for a single unit (which, as you might be thinking, can only be placed once on a route) the range adds a whole new dimension of versatility. I suspect Supercams will come into their own on gritstone style routes, where a small and a medium would cover a myriad of scenarios, negating the need for several traditional cams and covering a larger range of sizes.

Freenut Nut Tool RRP £13.00

These have been around for a while but recently it even seems to be spawning imitations by other companies – they must be good! The Freenut Extractor is an excellent variation on the ‘old style’ nut keys. The beauty of the Freenut is that the built in wire-gate clip keeps both weight and clutter on your harness down. It fits nicely at the back of your waist, out of the way, and easy to clip and unclip when needed. I found it generally serves its purpose very well – and my climbing partner who also used it confirmed this. I tend to tug my wire placements in pretty hard so it was well tested. Highly recommended.

At £13 the Freenut is not much more pricey than regular nut tools and you won’t need to buy an extra karabiner.

BRD Belay Device RRP £15.00

The BRD, or “Belay Rappel Device”, is a versatile little tool. It is a variation on the classic stitch plate design, similar to the many others available (Black Diamond ATC and DMM Bug being two examples).

Recently, the designers of such devices have tweaked them by adding features here and there. – the Black Diamond Guide for example incorporates a magic plate, and the ATC XP has features which give added friction when locking the rope off. The BRD has features designed to help dissipate heat which I found very useful.

The BRD was excellent for belaying, smooth and easy to lock, but I found it to be rather more cumbersome when abseiling. The shape of the base makes it less smooth than my ATC, although I can’t help thinking that with a bit more practice I would get used to the abseiling with the BRD. It did stay noticeably cooler than other devices I’ve used.

The price, £15, is similar to other devices available and makes it an appealing option.

Summary

As a proud owner of a Metolius Powderhorn, I was pleased to find the hardware from this iconic North American brand lived up to the same high standards.

While Metolius gear may not have been the top of my shopping list before testing this selection of kit, I would certainly consider it very seriously after using it for a few weeks and being very impressed. In general, the workmanship, design and usability all bear the hallmarks of a premium brand and many of the additional features I have discussed put it in a class above most others.

The stuff is clearly built to last, and Metolius’ focus on performance features is one of many of these hallmarks. In some areas durability may have been slightly compromised, but only extended use over a long period of time will tell. In any case, I feel the performance benefits are worthwhile.

Another indicator of quality is the finishing. Colour is used really well in both the consistent coloured size system and the rangefinder on the cams. This may seem like a superficial detail but it is in my view an important one and this demonstrates the attention to detail and thoughtfulness that has gone into the design.

Choosing a favourite is difficult, and I would be torn between the Ultralight Curve nuts and the Supercams – both groundbreaking products I fully recommend. If you have less cash to spend, get yourself a Freenut tool – you’ll be surprised how much you appreciate the improved design.

Personal preference is so important when choosing hardware, and you may think differently about some of the features I’ve discussed. Whatever your views on double-stemmed cams or the shape of nuts, I think most people would have to agree upon the quality and innovation on display.

Purchase any of the hardware listed above here.

Review by Dave Westlake