Article: Targasonne

BlocSport Targasonne
Targasonne is a beautifully situated village located (just!) on the French side of the Pyrenees, a few kilometers south of the equally picturesque, if slightly larger, municipality of Font Romeu. The most striking geographical feature of the area is the chaotic labyrinth of boulders strewn about the surrounding hill sides. This morass of rock reaches a central concentration in and around Targasonne’s southern flank and makes for an astounding bouldering destination.

Targasonne – often referred to as “The Chaos” – gained notoriety to the French climbing community around twenty years ago, when the area received visitations from a number of strong, internationally recognized, climbers, such as Jackie Godoffe, Patrick Edlinger and Patrick Berhault. These visiting legends acted as a catalyst and throughout the proceeding years the area has been developed, by locals and visiting climbers alike, into what is widely regarded as Frances second best bouldering destination – if I have to point out the first, please stop reading and leave these pages at once! In 2004 the area played host to the Petzl Rock Trip (“Targassonic”) when 500 climbers (including Lisa Rands, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Pedro Pons, Dany Andrada, Mauro Calibani. Chez les français, Tonio Lamiche, Jérôme Meyer, Daniel Dulac) from around the world descended on the venue, resulting in the opening up a number of hard new lines as well as raising the areas profile.


Due to its altitude of 1500m the area is prime for a sojourn during spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October), and although you can climb during the summer months you will find the weather getting pretty (too) warm. On the flip side of the coin it’s worth remembering the area is essentially renowned as a ski resort, so winter visitations could be interspersed with deep snow and you could well find snow on the ground in both October and April. The mountainous Pyrenean backdrop creates a real altitude ambiance which combined with the alpine meadows, sparse woodland and, of course, the boulders themselves makes for a beautiful location.

The climbing is omnifarious in style with plenty of slabs, walls and overhangs to keep you entertained. Before I visited the area I had heard tales of a rough merciless granite which, in some cases, was unpleasant to climb on. On the whole I felt this an unfair appraisal of the rock and thought it no rougher than some of the British granite found on the south west coast or in the Eskdale valley of Lakeland. That said the rock is abrasive so it’s worth pacing yourself and not attempting a problem too many times.

Best of the Rest:
Obviously there are hundreds of problems (actually over a 1000!) at Targasonne and the matter of which are the best (as with anywhere) is always open to debate. When picking problems from the lower grades the mind boggles with the amount of decent problems there are, on that front I’ll leave you to explore. The following is a short list of harder problems that I felt warranted a special mention as they represent differing styles and all have good lines.

Magic Instinct font 7c (Beleine)
Fl´echage Blanc Arete (204) font 7c (Taz)
Flagellum Daemonium font 7c (Dieux Païens)
Agathe the Poison font 7b+ (Dieux Païens)
Trait´e de d´emonologie font 7b (Beleine)
Little Death font 7b (Dieux Païens)
Un Soufle font 7a+ (Arixio)
L’amourir font 7a+ (Arixio)
L’aquarium Envol´e font 7a+ (Arixio)
Solitude Enjou´ee font 7a (Taz)
Pleasure Dome (ss) font 7a (Dieux Païens)

Guides:
A new guide book, authored by Fred Bertinhas, was produced in spring 2007. This contains details of 17 areas inhabited by over 1000 boulder problems from fb2 to fb8b. This can be purchased from La Griole campsite (in Targasonne) or from Rock + Run here for €25 or £21.95. There is a review of the guide here.

You can also download a free PDF guide at Targabloc, which gets you round the main area’s but can become pretty infuriating when negotiating some of the more spread out sectors.

Rest Days:
The La Griole camp site is pretty sociable (there is a bar open throughout the summer) and is a good setting for a spot of slacklining or just chilin’ out, it also has table tennis and board games. To revitalize sore joints and muscles there is a thermal baths at Llo which includes warm indoor and outdoor pools, Jacuzzi and sauna. If there is still snow on the hills Font Romeu is one of 12 local downhill ski resorts within easy reach. Here you will find Nordic skiing through trees and across a high plateau. The mountains contain plenty of fell running and mountain biking trails and there is also the option of Via Ferrate for the super keen.

Accommodation:
As the weather is generally pretty decent around the time most people visit I would recommend camping as good budget option. La Griole is very hospitable campsite run by a friendly (English speaking) Dutch couple. This has good facilities, is situated within “The Chaos” itself, and is reasonably priced.

For those of you seeking more refined digs there are plenty of gite’s in the area which can be rented from around £150 per a week, details can be found by contacting the Tourist Information at Font Romeu via www.font-romeu.fr.

In the vicinity of Font Romeu there is also the rustic Cal Barbe which offers both B&B and Self Catering. Another option is La Chouette at Odeillo also close to Font Romeu.

Access:
Targasonne is easily access from a number of French airports and isn’t that far from Barcelona. Perpignan airport is the closest: From here head for Font-Romeu, which takes 1½ to 2 hours. Toulouse is the next closest (2¼ hours) and finally Carcasonne at 2½ hours away is still within easy access.

Airport Connotations:
Ryan Air: Liverpool to Carcassonne, Dublin to Carcassonne, Stanstead to Carcassonne, Stanstead to Perpignan
Easyjet: Bristol to Toulouse
BMI: Manchester to Perpignan

Supplies and Eating Out:
There is a convenience store in Targasonne where fresh bread is available and a supermarket a few kilometers away in Egat (pictured left). There are numerous bars, patisseries and restaurants in Font Romeu, in particular I found “le Cellier” (a traditional French/ Catalan restaurant) to be a really nice little spot, commanding a great panoramic view and offering lots of variety. They don’t speak much English but they are really friendly and the house red is great value!

Purchase the Targassone guide for £21.95 here.

Review: Smartwool Baselayer

Men's Lightweight Crew and Lightweight Bottoms
I've used these two pieces as my base layers for the past two years. They have been worn mainly in winter for climbing in Scotland, Canada, Southern Norway, the European Alps and the Lofoten Islands in the far North of Norway. Winter climbing involves bursts of intense effort, periods of steady output and also times spent static on belays. Clothing systems therefore have a lot to cope with and the effectiveness of one's base layer is crucial.

Smart Wool Mens Lightweight Crew



The first thing to note is that I have only one top and one pair of bottoms. Even after three-week trips they hardly smell at all and continue to perform well. The ability of merino wool garments to effectively deal with perspiration is unparalleled in my experience. Having used top quality polyester base layers for many years (and been happy with their performance), using merino base layers was a complete revelation. I've never felt the least bit clammy with these garments and their ability to manage odour, whilst not of burning concern to me, has I think been appreciated by companions and fellow airline travellers.

Smartwool merino is easy to care for and the flat seams mean there's no discomfort (unlike on some other merino garments which I have to wear inside out to avoid the seams chaffing).
Smart Wool Mens Lightweight Zip T

Smartwool, base layers will keep you dryer and warmer (and cooler in the summer) because they'll keep you drier. Wool wicks better than any other fibre, natural or synthetic. As wool can also absorb moisture, it gives your body heat time to turn moisture into vapour, which is transmitted through your outer clothing. A synthetic cannot do this, as it does not absorb moisture, simply shifts it unvapourised into your outer clothing.

The merino wool used in Smartwool is of a higher grade than any other manufacturer. It's treated so they won't itch or shrink, even when hurled into the tumble dryer for a couple of hours. The only thing to watch out for is that you don't wash or dry them with clothing containing Velcro as they inevitably become stuck to the Velcro and you loose wool as you pull them off.

Smart Wool Mens Lightweight Bottoms


Downsides? Well, there's the cost (which actually represents good value if you consider I'd normally use two or three £30 synthetic thermals over a fortnight's trip, compared to one merino). But I'd say that the performance benefits are well worth the money anyway. If you're genuinely allergic to wool, these aren't for you. And when worn under polyester fleece, a reasonable amount of (harmless) static builds up. This is initially slightly alarming as a mini lightning display comes with the removal of one's fleece layers.

These are simply the finest base layers I've ever used. The attention to detail in construction and quality of the merino wool used sets them apart from other base layers. Very highly recommended.

Review by Dave Hunter

Coming Soon: The Graviton

Like the hypothetical particle of the same name the NEW Rock + Run Graviton allows its user (through proper usage) mastery and control over the force of gravity.

"In physics, the graviton is a hypothetical elementary particle that mediates the force of gravity in the framework of quantum field theory". Wikepedia

A true variable-friction device, the new Rock + Run Graviton maintains the smooth feed of a standard belay device but ups the braking power with the addition of two sets of friction teeth. For belaying and rapping with 8-11 millimeter ropes it is designed with a smooth low friction side but also a high friction side with v-shaped grooves giving three times more friction-lock. An extended central cable loop keeps biners and ropes properly orientated and reduces kinking.

The Graviton has been designed with the modern climber in mind and is adaptable across a wide range of disciplines but with a minimum of fuss and weight.

An evolution from the standard “ATC” style of belay device the new Graviton with its 'V' grooves to give much more belaying ‘bite’ and simple organic shape, make this a modern device that is truly confidence inspiring.

So from after work sessions down the climbing wall, to sports climbing on Kalymnos, double rope traditional or Alpine here’s a device that’s effective and gives total confidence in one neat package. Sitting beautifully in the hand the Graviton is easy on the eye, forgiving and obvious to use - even for a beginner.

At 67grams it is also one of the lightest “advanced” belay devices on the market, as well as offering an excellent level of versatility on rope diameters, with a simple shape, a large keeper loop and a stylish range of colours the Graviton should be your next best friend and remain by your side for years to come.

As with all belay devices we recommend the use of a decent sized HMS (such as the Austria Alpin HMS Magic), although, for those weight shavers out there, the device will operate safely with most screwgates.

As with all our own brand equipment we have upped the ante in an effort to give you the consumer the best products without doing to much damage to your wallet. By compressing the supply chain we have successfully cut the costs to the consumer. The result is another great product at an even better price!

Product Specification:
Weight: 67 Grams
Standards: CE Rated and 3-Sigma Rated
Colours: Orange, Silver and Blue
Price: £10.00

Release Date: 16^th July 2007

Boostafazzu!: A Review of the New Scarpa Booster

Being a dyed in the wool 5.10 Velcro fan it took some effort for me to actually get round to pulling these new Scarpa's on but when I did get round to it I was quietly impressed.

Performance:
This new high-performance "toe-down" Velcro is what I would call a specialist secondary shoe... "What?" I hear you cry. Well essentially for what it's designed for - steep edgey or pocketed/heal hugging terrain - it's a beast of a plimsoll, giving optimum power in the toe box, a great low volume fit and a narrow well fitting heel.

So if Parisella's Cave, The Bowderstone, Frankenjura, or Hueco Tanks are your bag then this shoe is well worth considering. But, if your after an all terrain vehicle which is as equally suitable for small edge "tick-tacking" up big face's as it is for powering through steep overhangs on pockety grips then this may not be the shoe for you.

Unlike the previous generation of Scarpa rock shoes the Booster (and it's peers) are now armed with Vibram XSV mk2 (or XS Grip) rubber, which is a vast improvement on the old Mega-Grip soles used previously.

Another neat new development is the use of Lorica in the toe box of all the new Scarpa models. Lorica is a non stretch synthetic material which has a soft feel and improves comfort across the tops of the toes, whilst at the same time preventing the toe box of the shoe from bagging out which cause shoes to lose shape, and thus ability to hold the foot in the right shape. Meaning the Booster holds its shape much longer. A final modification on the old Scarpa Velcro models is the well thought out and adhered rubber patch on the toe box. This gives you a useful edge over shoes without this feature when toe scumming on underclings and/or roof cracks.

Downsides:
As pointed out above the main downside of this shoe is also its biggest plus point; i.e. it's pretty specialist and (in my view) makes a great shoe for the climber who has more than one pair of foot tools. Construction wise, as with all Scarpa's, these shoes are very well put together, although, the Lorica fabric (used to construct the toe box) is not the most durable outer material and will scuff up if you are not a practitioner of careful footwork. Fortunately the Booster also has the rubber toe patch which should help to protect the fabric.

Summary:
So to summarise, this is a great technical shoe perfectly suited to steep bouldering and sport routes, however the asymmetric toe-down nature of the shoe will lean it toward the specialist end of the market and not toward the all-rounder market where the idividual wants one pair of shoes for everything.

Price: £70.00

Purchase the Booster.

North Wales Bouldering Meet 06/07

Over the previous weekend myself and Mike (Binks) cut loose the hedonistic shackles of the Lakes District and headed south to attend the first ever North Wales bouldering meet.

Organized by Welsh bouldering supremo Chris Davies and ably assisted by a strong team of locals, including Si Panton, Dave Noden and Matt Perrier but to name a few, the scene was set for a ragtag assemblage of climbers from The Peak, Midlands, Mersyside, Oxford and of course The Lakes to meet up at the splendidly revamped public abode "The Fricsan" on Friday evening for a session of shit shooting and beer swilling.

The following morning (Saturday) - and after the customary breakfast at Pete's Eats - the team set forth to descend on the boulders below Milestone Buttress in the Ogwen Valley.

Image: The Team © Simon Panton

With a belly full of enthusiasm and psyche (not to mention fried bread and sausages!) the usual onset of depression felt by all boulders during hot summer days was brushed aside and much fun was had by all. A number of classics were dispatched including The Prow Font 7c, Harvey Oswald Font 7a+, Jez’s Arete Font 6c, Pit Start Font 6c+, Marilyn Monroe Font 7a, Bombshell Font 6c+, and the ridiculously ungradeable, Dangleberries. Chris Davies even managed to climb a great new line, christened Einstein Font 7b+ - which (via a low gravity moment) I managed the third assent of. Once every one had had their fill of the Ogwen we headed back to the Pass for a warm down session at the Cromlech boulders. Amazingly some of us still had enough energy to send a few tricky lines as well as plenty of area classics.

Image: Harvey Oswald (ss) © Simon Panton

Saturday evening at the Fricsan was even busier than the Friday and had an almost carnival feel with a couple of smashing bands and a really great atmosphere. As the evening wore on tall tales and fishy stories flowed as freely as the ale and another cracking evening toped a superb days pebbling.

Despite the action packed day and half the team rose from there pits on Sunday morning and headed off up the pass for a sesh at the Wavelength boulders (Llanberis pass). Unfortunately a short sharp shower cut things a little short so we headed back to the Cromlech for the final leg. Muscles were now on the brink and skin thinner than an Ethiopian super model but, as I floundered in a pool of my own sweat, Mike found one last ounce of effort and made an impressive send of James Pond (Font7a) to round off what was and had been a cracking weekends jaunt!

Big thanks to the Chris and the North Wales boys for their knowledge and company. Here’s to the next one!

There is another news report at NorthWalesBouldering.com