The Rock + Run Blog

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4/17/2007

Invo8 Roclite 285

If you want to buy just one fell shoe to cover all bases this may not be the shoe for you. The good news is it makes no compromises in design to cater for a broader market. It is a true specialist product that lives up to its design brief.



Specialised or not, the
Roclite 285 arguably has a wider application for a greater range of running applications courtesy of the less aggressive sole design. The first thing I noticed when I tried the shoes on was that the fit is superb, so much so that they almost make you want run.

The outsole has a grid of flat-based studs, which as the name suggests means that shoe is good on exposed rock. Conversely you will loose out on some penetration while running on steep wet surfaces.



Here are a few examples of when and where I have used Roclite’s recently:

I love running in Roclite’s in dry conditions or in terrain that might include some road sections. Orienteering Sprint Races, which usually take place at locations such as University campuses are perfect Roclite terrain. These races can be on at least 50% hard surface but always with some grass of even small sections of forest. You need to run fast because the courses are short, 2-3Km and there is always a sprint to the finish so its good to wear a shoe that makes you feel light on your feet and isn’t too clumpy. If you haven’t tried an O Sprint Race I wouldn’t really recommend having a go. They’re designed for all age groups and you can run at your won pace. Here is an example of a map:





At the end of March I used the Roclite in the Loughrigg Fell race. Conditions were dry and the route flagged on good paths so the Roclite was a perfect choice.

Last Friday my wife Pat and I had a run up Sgor Gaoith in the Cairngorms. Roclite’s were the perfect choice for the dry sandy conditions typical of the hills in that area after a prolonged dry period.



On the way up Sgor Gaoith


...and on the way back

What I use them for: Fell running in dry conditions. Interval training. O sprint races and short fell races in dry conditions. I don’t do any road races but I would imagine that they would be good 10ks or flattish of road races. I also use the shoe for non-running application such as crag approach and carrying on long multi-pitch routes where you need to change out of rock boots for the descent.

What I wouldn’t use them for: Anything steep and wet.

Buy the Roclite 285 Here

4/12/2007

Review: Red Chili Corona (RRP £70 Our Price £30)

This is now a discontinued line from Red Chili but your friendly neighborhood Rock + Run has bought up the last reaming stocks and brought you this great shoe at a great price. Here’s what I made of this endangered species…

Optimus Primetime (Fnt7a+) Trowbarrow Quarry


It’s been a quite a few years since I last climbed in Red Chili’s and during this first foray I was not overly impressed with the general fit, performance or construction of these spiciest of rock shoes. So, as you can imagine, when I first tried on the Coronas my expectations were pretty low. Thanks to the great weather over the last few weeks I have spent plenty of time out on the crag (as I hope have you), and have given the Coronas a fair bit of field testing, and guess what, I like them!

The Fit

The semi-asymmetric lasting is close and friendly on the feet and I have experienced no problems from rubbing or abrasiveness from poorly placed stitching lines. The tongue is nice and flexible and doesn’t cut into the top of your foot when you really get over your toes; they also retain their shape pretty well.

Usage

I have mainly been using the Corona whilst bouldering on my local limestone crags in south Cumbria, but they have also been taken on a number excursions into the Lake and Peak Districts, with the ascending terrain varying from vertical to super steep, and so far they’ve done a stalwart job for me wherever I have been.

"perhaps a slight penchant toward the vertical realm"

What has stood out for me so far has been their edging ability, as they have performed especially well on more precision styles of climbing. The inside and outside edge of the toe box is particularly precise. I feel that their smearing abilities will improve with time, although according to the manufacturer one of the reasons for the demise of this shoe is its ability to retain a stiff forefoot. So it’s ideally suited for those of you who prefer more support on vertical ground, but perhaps not a shoe for all you smearing wads out there.

Many of my local crags involve quite a lot of heel work and for this I found the heel of the Corona to be pretty effective. I haven’t experienced any movement or slippage due to the neat low volume fit, and there is enough rubber to give you protection without losing feel. The extra rubber on and around the toe is also a nice bonus giving that bit more grip when toe hooking.

Construction

First impressions would conclude that this is a well made shoe. I have not had any problems with stitching coming undone or the rubber rand separating from the shoes. Couple this with the fact that they become pretty comfy I can see this shoe lasting well after long days of heavy hammer.

Downsides

Okay so that’s the good points, any drawbacks? My main concern is that they have stretched quite a lot, and in my opinion I think it would be best to buy tight and then spend a bit of time and effort stretching them out to your foot. Not the most pleasant thing in the world to do but worth it in the long run. You don’t want to get a few months down the line and end up with baggy shoes. During the initial stage of breaking them in they do feel a bit clumpy but this will reduce considerably after around 7 sessions.

Summary

There is no such thing as the perfect rock shoe, an obvious statement but never the less an accurate one. A bit boring of me to say but I feel that the Corona is a good all-rounder, with perhaps a slight penchant toward the vertical realm. Essentially though this puppy is as at home down the wall as it is on the crag, be it bouldering, multi-pitch or both.

Buy a pair of Red Chili Corona for only £30 (RRP £70) here.


4/05/2007

Article: The Lingy Stone and Beyond

With Easter almost upon us it’s always nice to try and find somewhere in UK where you can spend your bonus days off in a location which is preferably scenic, perhaps a little tranquil and most importantly has a focal point to concentrate ones efforts.

On bank holiday weekends finding a destination which fits the above criteria can prove taxing for those with even the most detailed knowledge of these fair isles most forgotten backwaters; step forward the Duddon Valley, Lingy and his cohorts.

Image: Liz Crane on Storm in a Teacup (Ft4)


The Duddon is one of the most picturesque and more importantly quietest valleys in the Lake District national park, and if approached via the south lakes coastal roads it is very easy to avoid the usual southern mass exodus… especially for those early birds out there. With little in the way of the usual honey pot destination “crap”, such as tea rooms, art galleries and outdoor shops (oops!) the valley is a true climber/walkers paradise. The focus of our attention for this little piece will be the northern end of the valley and the small esoteric bouldering circuits around Seathwaite tarn and the surrounding fells.

Image: Lingy Von Bong Chops (Ft7a+)
Click Here for a short Video Clip of this problem


Be warned if you’re after the next Bowderstone or Langdale Boulders then turn back now. This collection of beautifully set blocks is tailor made for the boulderer with a mountain heart and an eye for the scenic, whose day can be fulfilled just as easily by the ambience of an area as it can by a hard send. Well after that flooring blow I’ll haul you back up off the deck and tell you why you SHOULD visit this area. As previously stated the area is scenic to the extreme and despite the scattered nature of the blocks has some really fine climbing on great rock with generally good landings and problems up to Ft7c/V9! There are also a number of neat projects still to do, so don’t forget a stiff nylon brush.

The fist port of call, if approached from the base of the Walna Scar road, is the fantastically named “Lingy Stone”, a heather hat wearing block which has the peculiar air of a giant petrified toad, erm, sporting a mullet. This boulder and its neighbor have the highest concentration of problems of all the sectors and in Lingy Vong Bong Chops (Ft7a+), Mullets for Toads (Ft6b+), Crack Baron (Ft6b) and The Best Forgotten Traverse (Ft7b) have problems to match any of there grade in the lakes. Also check out the bizarre quartz and runnel features of Storm in a Teacup (Ft4), which look amazingly like a giant weather symbol.

Image: The Lingy Stone from Long Ho



Next up is Horse How a wall of unimaginable perfection 300m up the hillside from the Lingy Stone. This wall currently only purveys three problems from Ft5 to ft6b all of which are two or three stars, but has room for at least another 5 lines. A couple of hundred meters up the hill from Horse How is a yet undeveloped block (The Pike Boulder) which would appear to offer a further 3 or so unclimbed lines.

Image: An Irish Ladder (Ft7a)



Over the hill and far away.
Back to the track and a short stroll up over the brow the hill will have you face to face with Seathwaite Tarn, a picturesque little lake which will, I’m sure, evoke any number of superlatives. In 2003 the tarn - which incidentally doubles as a reservoir - was the site of an archeological dig, this uncovered a Bronze Age site which is thought to have been important for ceremonial purposes and also used a burial site, so keep a check on whether that really is an old sheep bone Rex is chomping on, and not the shin bone of some ancient Bronze Age overlord! Enough of the history lesson and back to the climbing, there are three more little areas around the tarn, these are Shudderstone How, The Damside Boulder, Black Allen’s Shed and the Foss How Boulders. Without procrastinating around the bush too much there are essentially three stand-pout lines at these venues (Darkness Before Dusk Ft7c, An Irish Ladder Ft7a and Knife ArĂȘte Ft6a) and a number of decent projects. Full details of which can be found in this freely downloadable guide: Seathwaite Bouldering Circuit.

Image: Darkness Before Dusk (Ft7c)



So all that’s left to say is have fun, leave the fells as you found them and if you do any new problems report them to the appropriate authorities – info@lakesbloc.co.uk

4/03/2007

Rock + Run Expedition Duffel MK II

Well at last we've got some of the ever popular (and UK manufactured) Rock + Run Expedition duffel bags back in stock, and in a great new colour option (Blaze Red) and also with a useful modification...


The new MKII version now has two superbly useful compression straps linking the carry handles. This means if you don't fill the bag to capacity you can crank in the straps to prevent your kit from flying about in transit. We wouldn't want your shirts and suits getting creased ;o)

The image below shows the new compression strap and burley YKK zippers in situ.


The duffel still retains all of the other ever popular features such as the burley YKK zipper, PVC tarpaulin outer, loads of space (Dimensions: 82x40x40cm 100lt), two double cross stitched haul handles, detachable over-the-shoulder/alpine rucksack straps and a useful internal mesh pocket. All this for the incredible price of £55.00!

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