Article: The Great Lakes Bolt Debate of The Early 90s

In the late 80s and early 90s the Lakes bolt debate reached fever pitch. Its probably not an exaggeration to say that it was a pivotal moment in British climbing the outcome of which formed the basis of BMC policy on fixed protection.

Initially the debate was polarised around climbers in the Ambleside area who were pro bolting and wanted to develop the Lakes slate quarries as sport climbing destinations and on the opposing side, climbers in the Ulverston area who wanted to protect Lakes climbing from the very real possibility of bolts appearing on the mountain crags.

The argument for the pro lobby was basically that bolting should be acceptable in the quarries and limestone crags which would probably have been accepted by all if it weren’t for several infamous aggravating incidents.

Three incidents more than any others fueled the debate and polarised opinion.

The first was the creation of the inspirationally named ‘Dog Fight at Virgin Massacre Creek’ by Paul Cornforth. The route ascends a totally smooth vertical wall on the otherwise rubbishy unclimbed side of Hodge Close Quarry. The controversy centred around the fact that the route was almost entirely chipped out of an otherwise hold-less and unclimbable sheet of smooth slate. Shortly after the first ascent the holds were filled in with cement by the anti bolt lobby.

Next, inspired by Corny’s route at Hodge Close, John Dunne rode into town packing a fully charged Hilti and promptly drilled/chipped the huge blank wall at Cathedral Quarry in preparation for a televised climbing competition. This was considered to be a much worse crime than ‘Dog Fight’ by the Ministry of Ethics because not only had chipping taken place but it was motivated by greed and financial gain.

The third incident was considered to be the ultimate sacrilege and caused debate far beyond the borders of Cumbria. Dave Birkett, who was just emerging as the great power of Lakes climbing, placed a single bolt on his new route at Raven Crag Langdale - ‘Dawes Rides a Shovel Head’. A team from North Wales chopped the bolt shortly after and Dave returned to lead the route without it.



Dave Birkett on 'Dawes Rides a Shovel Head' without the bolt as featured on the front cover the FRCC Langdale Guide.

With no Internet much of the arguing took place at the de rigour café of the era, the famous ‘Wilfs Café’ which was situated above Rock + Run Ambleside at that time. Local climber and social commentator Martin Bagness captured the essence of the period with this series of tongue in cheek cartons posted in the Rock + Run New Routes book.



The original chipping incident at Hodge Close provokes an engineering solution by the guardians of Lakes climbing.



The retro bolting of routes at Parrock Quarry by the original first ascentionists are an instant hit with the climbing public who are disinterested with the wider debate and just want to enjoy some safe climbing in the quarries.


The ultimate sacrilege - a bolt on a Lakes mountain crag. The local Ethics Police draft in support from North Wales.







Climbing instructors, seen as part of the wider climbing establishment and therefore anti bolting, get caught in the cross fire.





The story ends happily ever after....