La Pedriza is a National Park to the north of the Spanish capital Madrid, and covers the area around the village of Manzanares el Real. It is a spectacular area with crazy rock geometry, a playground for any climber. The main features are its golden granite domes and spires, which have been the background to some early western films.
Back in February 2004 I visited Pedriza and some other nearby areas. Whilst the weather wasn't great for me, I managed to experience some of the climbing and atmosphere of the place, and I thought I'd pass on some knowledge.
Photo: Mayayo Route (Summitpost.org)
Photo: Mayayo Route (Summitpost.org)
There are hundreds of routes in Pedriza, many of which are characterised by long beautiful slabs of fine to medium grained golden granite. There’s something here for everyone, an assortment of routes from those that you could quite happily walk or scramble up, to and a handful of French 8a+/8b slab climbs, probably amongst the largest concentration of hard slab climbing in the world.
You can easily drive into the park where one of your main bases is the Bar/Restaurant of El Canto Cochino. From here you cross the river where there are climbs nearby such as routes on La Tortuga (The Turtle), which is pictured above. However one of the main attractions takes you on a two and a bit hours hike up to El Yelmo - which is one of the main features of the park as it rises above its smaller brother and sister domes to a height of 1716m.
Most of the climbs in the Park are bolted, though many have some long runouts so it may be worth taking a few nuts and some cams to help calm those nerves. A single rope is often all you need but 60m or maybe 70m are useful.
"Watch out for the Vultures!"
When to go:
Many of the Climbs are south facing which makes it a good winter destination. Central Spain is generally quite dry in winter and can even be quite mild, also going in the coolest months means that you will be able to get more friction from the rock. There is more chance of rain either side of winter, going into the spring and autumn, but still good climbing conditions. Summer is to be avoided unless you like burning up in 40 degress on a blank slab with disco leg and your boot rubber creeping!
Guides:
I used Pedriza Guia De Escalada Deportiva. This is a Spanish text only guide, and it’s compact and has line diagrams marking a selection of routes and a basic map to help get you to the crags.
This guide can be obtained through Rock + Run here.
Pedriza Escalada Faciles, is a guide to the easier climbs in Pedriza, from grade 3s to 5+s. They are found on the classic outcrops. Whilst I have not personally used it (as it came out after I had been), I have seen comments that say it’s a great little guide to the area’s best easy climbs.
These guides and others can be picked up in Manzanares el Real.
Access:
Being not far from Madrid Barajas airport, Pedriza makes a great short break destination; it is easily accessible from the UK. Easyjet fly from Edinburgh, Gatwick, Luton and Liverpool. If you keep looking you can occasionally get a real bargain.
When you are there you can hire a car, but even this is not essential as you can catch a bus to Manzanares el Real from Madrid (Plaza de Castilla Station – Line 724). This takes about three quarters of an hour, see time tables route information and prices here.
• Camping is not allowed in the park although you are able to bivi. It is recommended that you take water with you as the water quality and quantity can vary a lot.
• There is camping at Camping El Ortigal, at Manzanares el Real, details can be found here.
• We spent a bit of time in the climbing shop Tienda de Aventuras which can be found up some easily visible stairs in the square in Manzanares el Real. The staff were very helpful in pointing out the best places to start as they have a good local knowledge. They have all the necessary guides, and kit you may require.
• On the Main Street there is a good supermarket for all your food requirements.
• There is also a garage for petrol, and to get your keys out of a locked hire car if you follow our example!
Tips:
Further information:
You can easily drive into the park where one of your main bases is the Bar/Restaurant of El Canto Cochino. From here you cross the river where there are climbs nearby such as routes on La Tortuga (The Turtle), which is pictured above. However one of the main attractions takes you on a two and a bit hours hike up to El Yelmo - which is one of the main features of the park as it rises above its smaller brother and sister domes to a height of 1716m.
Most of the climbs in the Park are bolted, though many have some long runouts so it may be worth taking a few nuts and some cams to help calm those nerves. A single rope is often all you need but 60m or maybe 70m are useful.
The area is quite confusing with a mass of walls, boulders and slabs - it can be easy to get lost if you don’t pay attention. Finding our way to some of the more distant crags proved a little difficult; in retrospect a walkers guide would have been useful in getting us to the crags. Sometimes we felt the maps in our guide book a bit lacking in detail, as there are many paths that run their way through the prickly shrubs and bushes.
"Watch out for the Vultures!"
When to go:
Many of the Climbs are south facing which makes it a good winter destination. Central Spain is generally quite dry in winter and can even be quite mild, also going in the coolest months means that you will be able to get more friction from the rock. There is more chance of rain either side of winter, going into the spring and autumn, but still good climbing conditions. Summer is to be avoided unless you like burning up in 40 degress on a blank slab with disco leg and your boot rubber creeping!
Guides:
I used Pedriza Guia De Escalada Deportiva. This is a Spanish text only guide, and it’s compact and has line diagrams marking a selection of routes and a basic map to help get you to the crags.This guide can be obtained through Rock + Run here.
Pedriza Escalada Faciles, is a guide to the easier climbs in Pedriza, from grade 3s to 5+s. They are found on the classic outcrops. Whilst I have not personally used it (as it came out after I had been), I have seen comments that say it’s a great little guide to the area’s best easy climbs.
These guides and others can be picked up in Manzanares el Real.
Access:
Being not far from Madrid Barajas airport, Pedriza makes a great short break destination; it is easily accessible from the UK. Easyjet fly from Edinburgh, Gatwick, Luton and Liverpool. If you keep looking you can occasionally get a real bargain.
When you are there you can hire a car, but even this is not essential as you can catch a bus to Manzanares el Real from Madrid (Plaza de Castilla Station – Line 724). This takes about three quarters of an hour, see time tables route information and prices here.
Photo above: © Rafael Maroto
Accomodation and day to day living:• Camping is not allowed in the park although you are able to bivi. It is recommended that you take water with you as the water quality and quantity can vary a lot.
• There is camping at Camping El Ortigal, at Manzanares el Real, details can be found here.
• We spent a bit of time in the climbing shop Tienda de Aventuras which can be found up some easily visible stairs in the square in Manzanares el Real. The staff were very helpful in pointing out the best places to start as they have a good local knowledge. They have all the necessary guides, and kit you may require.
• On the Main Street there is a good supermarket for all your food requirements.
• There is also a garage for petrol, and to get your keys out of a locked hire car if you follow our example!
Tips:
- Take a small Spanish/English dictionary, it can help with the Spanish guides and learn your hello's please and thankyou's before you go.
- Boots, take a nice smeary pair, I would take two pairs, due the granite and the amount of smearing you will be doing an extra pair would be good in case you go through your first.
- Don’t take me if you want good weather!
Further information:
- For some great photos of Pedriza click Summitpost.org
- interclimbing.com has some basic photo topos for some routes in Pedriza
- Hopefully you wont have to resort to a climbing wall but if you do I can recommend Espacio Accion (The link will take you to directions, opening times etc.)
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